KAPPO | ごでんや (Godenya)


Certainly another key endorsement of our beloved city being the platform for Japanese food and sake to go international, Goshima-san went all the way to move his Sumida shop from Tokyo into town a few months ago, bringing along tens of cases of quality sake as well as some delicate yet creative cooking combing French, Japanese, and for the first time and fittingly in town, Cantonese cuisine. Being more a hole in the wall type of secretive drinking place back in Tokyo, with minimalist deco in a 80-year old wooden house, the Goshimas more or less managed to keep the same concept, replicating the shop in ideally a little back alley in town with an ambience which could really be somewhere in Japan. The only department they beefed up as far as I can see, and rightly so, is the use of ingredients. Famous for its sake pairing, with the master being a qualified warm sake somm ‘kantsukeshi’ himself, a few dishes tonight actually managed to even steal the limelight in front of all the rare yet quality, professionally served sake. With LG coming straight back from Tokyo with still memories of some of the best ever Ayu tasted vividly in mind, the execution of this seasonal dish tonight brought it to yet another level. From smoke to the ‘Cantonese’ style bamboo steamer, this could really be from some high end Ginza Kaiseki anytime. While the lamb chop with fragmented bean curd sauce and roquefort was probably a bit over the top, the dish of the night goes to some grilled early season Sanma, being the first day they are serving it this year, on top of a bed of Cantonese ‘XO’ sauce cross over with some vegi purée (being the French touch). By far the best Sino-Japanese dish I have ever tried! With only six seats at the counter and open only for dinner, the place is apparently all booked up till October already. For sake lovers and yet picky on the food to go with it, this is certainly a must try.

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